An Evening Out With The Minx…25/10/2011

The prediction was for some rideable waves. I wasn’t convinced. The sea was still pretty crappy but I figured I’d take a look on my way home. I’m glad I did - a surfer was out and he was catching some reasonable rides. I walked in, got changed, picked up my RRRapido and went for another try.



My wife walked down with me and took some video when I began; I had an hour of daylight left and she recorded the first couple of attempts. I wanted to see what I was doing wrong with my new ride and this would be helpful.

It took some effort to get out. The waves had a lot of power in them and were breaking badly but after a while I made it through, got out back and slipped my thigh straps on. I seem to be canting over to the left a lot so had to keep adjusting my position and seat back which left me in the water a few times over the course of the session but the waves were steep enough to pick them up regularly. Off I went, charging down and being followed by the mush as they broke behind me earlier than hoped; low water does this on my beach.

I had a few reasonable rides in, falling in each time as I got to the end and then, with my wife now off the beach, I started to settle into the feel of things. Some good sets were coming in, still close to each other, and picking them up wasn’t generally too difficult but I was still making a fool of myself…

…until…

I caught a lovely wave. The RRRapido did what I’d hoped it would. I dropped down the face and pulled into a bottom turn, digging the rail in just enough and keeping the blade out just enough and screamed off along what face the wave had. Beautiful! I got side on as it started to break and stayed upright all the way in until I turned back over the top. Yes!

The next ride was even better – drop, scream along and then, with it still big and about to break I cut back over the top and out! I’ve been wanting to manage that for so long.

I rode another. I turned side on and a little bit more. I couldn’t quite get into the backwards position for a full spin but she was willing and with a better wave I might just have got it…she span back around and I shot in forwards again. Marvellous! I told her I loved her ;D

I went back out. It was getting dark rapidly now; time was running out. I caught another wave and got dumped. Then got trashed a few times trying to get out again. Another reasonable ride followed; reasonable but slow. It was supposed to be the last but I couldn’t get over the lip though I stayed on it all the way by leaning right forward. Okay, one more. Who knows when I’ll have something I can ride again?

The surfer rode one last wave and came in. It was hard to see the sets now, hard to see the bigger waves. I wanted one more good one…and I spotted it. I turned.

The wave reared up behind me…4ft, maybe a bit more but certainly way higher than my head was on the RRRapido…I paddled, concentrated, picked it up, made the drop down the face, hooked into a bottom turn, roared along the face, went straight in to avoid some foam, cut back in and with the crest still unbroken, got ¾ around then turned in again and went flying into shore. THAT is why I bought my little green minx! What a ride ;D

I came home. I reckon she’ll let me get the hang of her.