Quite like drunken sex…30/09/2013

Quite like drunken sex…30/09/2013 That’s a statement, not a question before any of you ask what my plans are tomorrow! Plans for the day weren’t as hoped – they didn’t involve the water at all either for once – but it gave me a badly timed bit of fun all the same. The lead up to high water is when we get some waves to ride at the end of the road, trouble is I was free towards the middle of the ebb when the water is low, obviously, and receding, like my hairline. This means the waves get absorbed by the sandbank that has built up in the wrong place over the last couple of years and nothing is big enough to trip up properly nor long enough to carve for ages. Last night, for example, I had people over and had a look around an hour before high to see some of the local surfers I know arriving and or surfing already – waves breaking 6-8ft and though nothing was clean it was certainly rideable for the first time since march when it seemed to last most of the time I was off with my hernia. But like I say, needs must. I squeezed into my wetsuit for the first time in ages, grabbed the Rrrapido and my Mystik and headed to the beach, launching and breaking through the dumping crap to the end of the groyne. Mostly it was large peaks – 4-6ft, but a few had a bit of width and I only waited for my first one. It was good to clear my sinuses with a wipeout and I remembered that I needed to avoid purling; be quicker going into a bottom turn you dumbshit! A few minutes passed and I caught my first, riding it as well as it would allow. Great! Better than mooching round at home sorting my kit that had been drying back in the car – taken out while emptying it for tomorrow’s MOT. Caught another. And another, then a few more with only one wipeout. Good to have some practice but nothing fantastic. That’s where the drunken sex analogy comes in: Lumpy, bumpy, wet, messy, disappointing ride and of course I've had better. But, like drunken sex it was worth it and I wasn’t all that choosy.