I caught a few more, wiped out three times trying to do a 360 flat spin (managed a couple of decent 180's and got 3/4 round on a third attempt) and then pulled into a good position once again. A larger one came rolling in and I went for it even though I knew I’d be dropping in too late; Down I went, the nose pearling and it spun sideways, underneath foam and water. I was knocked from my seat, grabbed a thigh strap and with my feet over the other side and my arse just about on the rail facing the wave I got crucified for the first time ever - from above I’d look like a cross as I bombed in, the wave pressure forcing a few pints of cold North Sea into my drysuit under the neoprene. Liberating it was and then, somehow, I pulled a John Wayne and threw my arse back into the seat, spun myself upright and paddled out of the foam. Don't ask me how, I really doubt I could do it again!
I rode a bunch more, very fast runs that were tricky to turn and carve with at first, some quite long ones when I managed it and some 180 flat spins. I caught another that went kind of wrong, buried the nose, spun and was inadvertently travelling backwards from the start, turning side-on and bongoing in when it broke. I liked that one! Then, as time was getting on and it was starting to darken, I caught a lovely wave. The paddle, causing me problems with being so long, got lifted into the air and I controlled my run along the face by pulling on thigh straps and putting pressure with alternate arse cheeks to keep my line and this really, really worked! Longest ride of the afternoon.
I decided to do that again, caught a couple more, swam again and then took my last wave. I had to wait for it but when it came I took off, fast, ran in straight, then carved as it started to break, then turned ahead again as the remnant rolled under me, the following one running me onto the beach. Class! I walked up the ramp.
I stood there, at the top and just looked. The beginnings of dusk gave great light onto the clean waves rolling in and I just watched. The world was supposed to end today. It can end every day if it's going to be that great.
Friday 21 December 2012
Times Like These...21/12/2012
There are times when there is no other option than to go paddling. This was one of them. I'd had a long and hard day on the water paddling and fishing, culminating in a fast surf landing and decided that I couldn't not go and ride some waves. I couldn't get in the house anyway so grabbed my RRRapido even though I only had my cranked Nordkapp available; at 215cm it's around 20cm longer than my usual surfing shaft but times are hard...
Back at the beach I watched. It wasn't all that big yet, 3-4ft, but the waves were clean and the sets were coming regularly. I'd have no problem riding these and they shouldn't have even been there judging by the wind direction. I wandered over to the rip inside the groyne and paddled out.
I got past the groyne, turned and waited a minute before catching my first wave, the first of a set. It was fast! One of the fastest waves I've caught here I went screaming down the face, carved along and then pulled up and over. I was grinning! I went back out, caught a second, did the same, turned to paddle out and got knocked off three times in succession before it flattened out a bit for a few minutes.
No camera but I like pictures so here’s a stock one:
I caught a few more, wiped out three times trying to do a 360 flat spin (managed a couple of decent 180's and got 3/4 round on a third attempt) and then pulled into a good position once again. A larger one came rolling in and I went for it even though I knew I’d be dropping in too late; Down I went, the nose pearling and it spun sideways, underneath foam and water. I was knocked from my seat, grabbed a thigh strap and with my feet over the other side and my arse just about on the rail facing the wave I got crucified for the first time ever - from above I’d look like a cross as I bombed in, the wave pressure forcing a few pints of cold North Sea into my drysuit under the neoprene. Liberating it was and then, somehow, I pulled a John Wayne and threw my arse back into the seat, spun myself upright and paddled out of the foam. Don't ask me how, I really doubt I could do it again!
I rode a bunch more, very fast runs that were tricky to turn and carve with at first, some quite long ones when I managed it and some 180 flat spins. I caught another that went kind of wrong, buried the nose, spun and was inadvertently travelling backwards from the start, turning side-on and bongoing in when it broke. I liked that one! Then, as time was getting on and it was starting to darken, I caught a lovely wave. The paddle, causing me problems with being so long, got lifted into the air and I controlled my run along the face by pulling on thigh straps and putting pressure with alternate arse cheeks to keep my line and this really, really worked! Longest ride of the afternoon.
I decided to do that again, caught a couple more, swam again and then took my last wave. I had to wait for it but when it came I took off, fast, ran in straight, then carved as it started to break, then turned ahead again as the remnant rolled under me, the following one running me onto the beach. Class! I walked up the ramp.
I stood there, at the top and just looked. The beginnings of dusk gave great light onto the clean waves rolling in and I just watched. The world was supposed to end today. It can end every day if it's going to be that great.
I caught a few more, wiped out three times trying to do a 360 flat spin (managed a couple of decent 180's and got 3/4 round on a third attempt) and then pulled into a good position once again. A larger one came rolling in and I went for it even though I knew I’d be dropping in too late; Down I went, the nose pearling and it spun sideways, underneath foam and water. I was knocked from my seat, grabbed a thigh strap and with my feet over the other side and my arse just about on the rail facing the wave I got crucified for the first time ever - from above I’d look like a cross as I bombed in, the wave pressure forcing a few pints of cold North Sea into my drysuit under the neoprene. Liberating it was and then, somehow, I pulled a John Wayne and threw my arse back into the seat, spun myself upright and paddled out of the foam. Don't ask me how, I really doubt I could do it again!
I rode a bunch more, very fast runs that were tricky to turn and carve with at first, some quite long ones when I managed it and some 180 flat spins. I caught another that went kind of wrong, buried the nose, spun and was inadvertently travelling backwards from the start, turning side-on and bongoing in when it broke. I liked that one! Then, as time was getting on and it was starting to darken, I caught a lovely wave. The paddle, causing me problems with being so long, got lifted into the air and I controlled my run along the face by pulling on thigh straps and putting pressure with alternate arse cheeks to keep my line and this really, really worked! Longest ride of the afternoon.
I decided to do that again, caught a couple more, swam again and then took my last wave. I had to wait for it but when it came I took off, fast, ran in straight, then carved as it started to break, then turned ahead again as the remnant rolled under me, the following one running me onto the beach. Class! I walked up the ramp.
I stood there, at the top and just looked. The beginnings of dusk gave great light onto the clean waves rolling in and I just watched. The world was supposed to end today. It can end every day if it's going to be that great.
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