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Friday 25 May 2012

So-So Surf…25/05/2012

Tuesday night, Wednesday night, Thursday night…all lovely, calm, no wind, balmy evenings with flat seas. I figured on the water clearing sufficiently, I figured on bass at the Swan. I figured on getting out for them. I figured on energy. I knew it was going to break overnight and Friday would be bigger, I knew it and still didn’t go. I should have… Friday…another hot sunny day. I leave off at half three on a Friday, that put me home at four after a quick look at the sea; four paddlers out and enough to get onto though nothing spectacular so I didn’t bother with any cameras for once (stock photo inserted from a similar session!). It had to be worth a shot and so I squeezed myself into my fancy-pants wetsuit, grabbed the RRRapido and my Mystik, donned a short sleeved cag (the easterly was strong and I didn’t want to get fed up from wind-chill) walked to the end of the road and launched. It didn’t look great but one of the paddlers reported that they’d had a great time since two and were all now knackered. He also said it was worth the effort and so I paddled out and over the foam. “Photobucket” Blimey, it’s been a while since I rode the RRRapido. It felt wobbly. Probably because it was. I got to my usual position and almost immediately a set came through and I chose the largest one, nothing major, 3-4ft but short and messy. Up it came, started to peak as I ran down it. I stuffed it up, pearled and flipped out. Pearling is my new surf kayaking term, I try to learn one each surf report! Pearling is when you bury the nose and end up looking a complete dick in front of everyone on the beach. I hopped back on, wiped away the shame and tried again… In all I had maybe a dozen decent rides though all but two were short as I was practicing my cutbacks and 180’s as there was no real speed or power behind the waves this time. It was coming on for low water anyway so that was to be expected. No matter, I bongoed in on the last reasonable one (well, two actually, the first one faded away) picked up my RRRapido and wandered home to get ready for the weekend.

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